La Paz, Baja Ca Sur, Mexico ~ Seals, Whale Sharks and the Sea of Cortez

We booked this two-day getaway in La Paz, Mexico with a plan to swim with the whale sharks. Little did we know we would have one of our Best. Days. EVER!

We checked into a corner room at Las Gaviotas Hotel. This hotel is a hidden gem. It has sixteen 1 & 2 bedroom apartments, fully furnished, great views and a block and a half off the Malecón (Malecón translates to “pier” in Spanish but is the common name for the boardwalk that stretches along the waterfront in Latin beach towns around the world.) Our hosts, the owners Linda & Chalo are incredibly gracious and offered a lot of local tips for us to pass on to you. They also have a stash of beach chairs and basic beach gear available to borrow.

Just down on the Malecón at the end of the street is the restaurant Mariscos Los Laureles. The fresh whole fish and coconut shrimp are amazing. Honestly everything on the menu is divine.

Swimming with seals & whale Sharks

An early breakfast at Mariscos Bismarkcito fueled us up and we headed to the boat launch kiosk.

There are many vendors that offer tours to swim with the whale sharks. You can get hustled by random guys on the Malecón but we chose to book thru one of the kiosks near the town’s Centro Plaza. We were able to book a “combo” that included an all day boat ride to swim with the seals, have lunch on an isolated beach and swim with the whale sharks for $150 each.

We boarded the boat with about 10 other people and headed out on a 2 hour ride that was colder than we expected. Bryan’s pro-tip would be to make sure you pack some warm gear as being on the ocean all day can get chilly. Several people had dressed for a “beach” day and were caught off guard.

Our first stop was Isla Espíritu Santo. There are several hundred seals that live on this Isla and we geared up and jumped in the water for a swim. It was an unforgettable experience and one we definitely recommend.

Next stop, our captain pulled the boat up to Playa Enseñada Grande. This secluded beach ranks as one of the most beautiful beaches we’ve ever been to. Our Captain had made fresh ceviche and we ate tostadas on the beach and went for a swim.

Top 5 beaches in La Paz, Mexico

• Playa Enseñada Grande: Access by boat charter. Secluded with no services. Turquoise waters for swimming.
• Playa Balandra: We took a bus out of the bus station in the center of town. R/T fare was $5 each. Unique beach with some fruit vendors and souvenir vendors on the beach. Minimal food and beverages available. Beautiful seafoam colored water and large sand bank so you can walk a hundred yards out into the water and still be knee deep.
• Playa El Coromuel: Just North on the Malecón, you come to a small bay with a pier where they have a couple of restaurants and bars. Nearby there are bathrooms and some little commercial spots where you can buy beverages and seafood.
• Caimancito Beach: 2 miles North of town. Hotel nearby for food and beverage purchases. Liked by the locals.
• Playa Pichilingue: 10 miles North of La Paz. Full services available. Beautiful swimming beach.

Swimming with Whale Sharks

Whale shark season is from October to February and planning a trip during this time will provide you with a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Our guide was highly experienced in finding the Whale sharks and after scouting for less than 30 minutes she was able to put us up close and personal to a Whale shark. These docile animals are up to 20 feet long but be prepared to swim, it takes some effort to keep up with them. However, swimming next to them was an emotional and a once-in-a-life time experience.

Top 5 restaurants in La Paz

• Mariscos Los Laureles: On the North end of the Malecón. Seriously some of the best seafood we’ve ever had.
• Los Bismarkcitos: On the Malecón with great view. Had an delicious breakfast here and the place is packed at night. Fresh seafood from local fishermen and reasonably priced.
• The Tailhunter Restaurant: Fresh seafood daily from local fishermen. You can also book day fishing charters here.
• Steinbeck’s at Costa Baja: Inspired by the award wining author who spent a lot of time in the Sea of Cortez. Great steak and seafood restaurant. A little pricey but worth an Uber trip to see this beautiful resort and enjoy a night of fine dining.
• Los Magueyes: Off the beaten path but great authentic Mexican food and some vegan options.

La Paz, unlike Cabo still retains much of its small, authentic Baja Mexico town feeling. Day trips from here include Los Cabos & Todo Santos.

We highly recommend you read two of the books written by John Steinbeck that are based on this quaint fishing town. The Pearl and Logs from the Sea of Cortez were written by the Pulitzer Prize-winning author and will give you a glimpse into what this area was like in the 1950’s when he was exploring here. Many of the places we visited are discussed in detail in these books.

Be sure to check out our other blogs of places to visit in Baja, Ca. Sur.